The Good Brow Guide

Brows have the ability to make us look younger, slimmer and instantly groomed. Eyebrows should be thicker towards the middle of the face and gradually taper out towards the ends. If you have over plucked and lost shape, visit a brow specialist who can reshape them for you.

Fashion trends for brows vary. Currently a fuller, natural groomed brow is fashionable. However, finding a brow shape to suit your face is more important than following trends. Once you have achieved your ideal shape, the correct tools and products can be used daily to further enhance and define your eye brows. 

A few extra minutes in the morning applying brow pencil or powder can make an enormous difference to your overall look. Gorgeous brows will frame your face, and you'll require less makeup and effort overall to look groomed and put together.

If you are shaping your own brows, make sure you only pluck one or two hairs at a time. Stop and check in a mirror from afar. Does the shape look okay? Be very cautious and go slowly. Plucking above the brow is fine as long as you are only removing stray hairs away from the actual shape of the brow.                                                        

How do I know what shape my brow should be?

This is the best way to map out your general brow shape and proportions.

1. The line from the edge of the nose (at the nostril) directly up is where your brow should begin.

2. The line from the edge of the nose going straight through the pupil is where the arch in your brow should sit.

3. The line from the edge of the nose to the outer corner of the eye is where your brow should end. (You can map this out by holding up a pencil or make-up brush as a guide).

If your current brow doesn't fit this guide, never fear. It's easy to reshape eye brows, and much of this can be created when filling in the brow with a pencil or powder.

When to call in the professionals

If your brows are seriously out of shape, have been over plucked, or you are going to shape them for the first time, consider getting them shaped professionally. Be very careful where you go; the best way to find a good brow technician is through word of mouth. Ask someone with lovely brows where they go. For my Auckland based readers, I can confidently recommend Off Wax Bar in Newmarket. Many of my friends go here and they all have amazing brows (and rave about the service).

If your brows are very sparse or over plucked, consider using a growth product like Rapidlash or LiBrow. Applied to the area daily, these products can actually regrow brows. Expect results in four to six weeks.

Choosing a brow product

If you have naturally thick brows, you may not need to fill them in. For the rest of us, even a tiny bit of powder or pencil can make an enormous difference. This is quick step that is easily incorporated into your make-up regime.

Brow powders give a lovely soft look. Applied with an angle brush, they will fill any gaps and create definition beautifully. You can even use a suitable shade of eye shadow (as long as it has no shimmer). Choose a colour close to your natural brow colour, or a shade lighter than your hair. Brow pencils do exactly the same thing; just apply them in feather light strokes to keep it looking natural. Never use a black brow product! If you have black hair, choose a dark brown.

Daily Upkeep

Once your brows are in great shape, a quick routine will enhance your beautiful brows and keep them tidy.

- Comb through with a clean mascara wand or brow brush. I like to comb the brows up and then smooth over the top to create a nice shape.

- Check for any stray hairs, and whip them out with a pair of tweezers. Doing this daily saves time and keeps you looking groomed.

- Apply your brow highlight if desired. A light coloured shadow or pencil applied directly under the brow will really make it pop. Blend well.

- Using your product of choice, lightly fill in the brows to create definition. During this step you can create a tiny bit of extra length at the end of the brow, correct shape, and thicken them up slightly if required. Using small, light strokes of your brush or pencil will keep the finished result looking natural.

- Set the brows with a brow wax (often sold in brow kits), brow gel, or a spray of hairspray on a clean brow brush or mascara wand.

- For those with full natural brows, simply comb and set with a gel. This is also a great tip for men with unruly eyebrows.